So I realize it has been a few weeks since my last post. School work has been winding down and nothing of real interest has been happening in Yogya. As a result, a few of us decided to take a little trip to the beach for a few days!
I went with Chelsea and Anastasia to Sulawesi...Indonesian island to the east of Java. We left on Saturday and flew into Makassar, a large industrial port city without a great beach scene. Wanting to escape the city we traveled to Pantai Bira, about 250 km (155 miles, ish) away. After 6 hours in the Kjang (yes, 6!) we reached Bira and began looking for a place to stay. The town appeared as if it was once a thriving beachside tourist destination though from all outside observations the place is in decline. On our third attempt we found a suitable bungalow at the Bira Beach Hotel...it would have to suffice for 4 nights.
The next three days were spent reading/relaxing/swimming/walking the beach/eating. Really, put these events in any order and that was life for a few days! On Sunday the beach was crowded with locals from Makassar but during the week we only encountered other "bule" along the sandy white shores of Bira! Nearly all of our meals were consumed at the same beach front restaurant and on our second day we befriended an Australian living in Bira for a few months to train for an upcoming swimming competition. Plus, there was plenty of cold Beer Bintang to be had at this place so no one could complain too much.
In the end, Anastasia and I ended up with a brown glow from our days in the sun, while Chelsea maintained her pasty white "yankee" look from hiding under rocks along the shore. On the trip back to Makassar we wisened-up and hired a private Kjang which got us into the city in nearly half the time as it took to reach Bira 4 days earlier...live and learn, I guess.
So, back in Yogya now and eagerly awaiting Christian's arrival in Indonesia on Saturday night! Tomorrow will be a spa day...my last trip to Martha Tilaar. I will enjoy, for sure.
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Terlalu Pedas
After nearly 2 months of eating Indonesian food on a daily basis I thought I was getting used to the rice, the chicken, the vegetables, etc. After all, I have trained myself to say “tanpa telur” each time I order a meal, no matter what it is. Tanpa telur means without egg – Indonesians tend to add egg to nearly every dish; yuck! Well, now it seems that I need to also add the phrase “tidak pedas” to my food orders. For lunch today I ordered nasi goreng, a very common rice dish. When the plate arrived at my table I was looking forward to a filling (rice is very filling) meal. In less than two full bites my eyes had become as large as bug eyes and I was reaching for the nearby napkin to wipe my dripping nose. The nasi goreng was SOOOO spicy! In fact, I think it was the spiciest thing I have EVER eaten. The kind waitress saw the distress in my face and came to my table where I barely managed to say (more like whimper), “terlalu pedas.” She let out a little giggle, undoubtedly thinking I was some crazy American that couldn’t ever tolerate simple nasi goreng. Nonetheless, she took the plate away and returned a few minutes later with another dish of rice, tidak pedas! Thank goodness.
In other news….I have been reading some great novels over the past few weeks thanks to the Library O’Diana. My favorite so far is "Suite Francaise" written during WWII by Irene Nemirovsky, a Russian Jew living in France. The manuscript was not published until this century and the whole story remains untold due to her untimely death at the hands of the Nazis in 1942. It’s an absolutely gripping novel of what it means to be human; I highly recommend it. I also finished reading “Memoirs of a Geisha” which is now a film. As always, I am a few years behind on the movie scene, oh well. And just this morning I finished “The Lazarus Project,” another novel addressing the plight of humanity and the role that religion, war, and elitism unequivocally play in our human destinies. Sitting on my desk now is “The Elegance of the Hedgehog;” I will let you know how it turns out in a few days.
In other news….I have been reading some great novels over the past few weeks thanks to the Library O’Diana. My favorite so far is "Suite Francaise" written during WWII by Irene Nemirovsky, a Russian Jew living in France. The manuscript was not published until this century and the whole story remains untold due to her untimely death at the hands of the Nazis in 1942. It’s an absolutely gripping novel of what it means to be human; I highly recommend it. I also finished reading “Memoirs of a Geisha” which is now a film. As always, I am a few years behind on the movie scene, oh well. And just this morning I finished “The Lazarus Project,” another novel addressing the plight of humanity and the role that religion, war, and elitism unequivocally play in our human destinies. Sitting on my desk now is “The Elegance of the Hedgehog;” I will let you know how it turns out in a few days.
Monday, July 13, 2009
Salatiga
I never thought I would actually be cold this summer in Indonesia, but on Saturday morning I stood looking to the east at 5 am with goosebumps covering my arms and legs. Why was I awake at 5 am one might ask. Well, I was up to see the sunrise, of course. I heard the call to prayer a little before 5 and decided it was about time to head outside. Having some sense that it might be a bit chilly I grabbed my cardigan and headed out, camera in tow. The sunrise was lovely, so many colors illuminating the sky then eventually reflecting off the neighboring mountains.
Salatiga is in Central Java, north of Yogya and during the trip we visited a Buddhist college, Syailendra Buddhist College, up in the mountains then made our way to the Ambarawa Railway Museum. For my Lancaster friends, one could liken the railway museum to the Strasburg Railroad. For a few thousand rupiah the gang piled on the tourist train for an hour train ride through the countryside. I must admit, it was quite nice. The mountain views were stunning and as we passed acres and acres of rice fields I was truly impressed by the local agricultural practices.
We stayed over night in Salatiga at a Christian retreat center like place on a coffee plantation. Before the trip I had high hopes for finding some whole coffee beans at the plantation to bring back to the States. When I mentioned this to my mom on the phone she suggested that I look for some in the local gift shop and inquire about having some beans shipped directly to the U.S. At the time I thought this was a brilliant idea....then I re-entered the reality that is Indonesia! There would be no such gift shop to purchase (and don't even think about shipping) coffee beans. In fact, I consider myself lucky to simply have enjoyed a cup of coffee on Saturday morning. Alas, Pak Nik saved me from my troubles and procured for me a kilo of coffee. The search for more "oleh-oleh" continues, nonetheless.
Salatiga is in Central Java, north of Yogya and during the trip we visited a Buddhist college, Syailendra Buddhist College, up in the mountains then made our way to the Ambarawa Railway Museum. For my Lancaster friends, one could liken the railway museum to the Strasburg Railroad. For a few thousand rupiah the gang piled on the tourist train for an hour train ride through the countryside. I must admit, it was quite nice. The mountain views were stunning and as we passed acres and acres of rice fields I was truly impressed by the local agricultural practices.
We stayed over night in Salatiga at a Christian retreat center like place on a coffee plantation. Before the trip I had high hopes for finding some whole coffee beans at the plantation to bring back to the States. When I mentioned this to my mom on the phone she suggested that I look for some in the local gift shop and inquire about having some beans shipped directly to the U.S. At the time I thought this was a brilliant idea....then I re-entered the reality that is Indonesia! There would be no such gift shop to purchase (and don't even think about shipping) coffee beans. In fact, I consider myself lucky to simply have enjoyed a cup of coffee on Saturday morning. Alas, Pak Nik saved me from my troubles and procured for me a kilo of coffee. The search for more "oleh-oleh" continues, nonetheless.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Taco Tuesday and Election Wednesday
It's Friday now but earlier this week some highlights include Tuesday night tacos at Melissa's place and the Indonesian presidential election on Wednesday.
Somehow Melissa was able to procure the necessary ingredients to host a most wonderful Mexican taco feast in Yogya! I would say that in the end it was truly a blending of the cultures but she did have ground beef, taco seasoning, and a 7-layer guacamole dip! The moon was full on Tuesday night and we lingered around the roof top deck for a few hours eating, talking, and drinking some sangria! At Melissa's I met another American student, she's studying anthropology at UGA and I learned that she is in Indonesia searching for a possible field research site. It was quite a lovely evening; thanks Melissa.
Wednesday was election day for Indonesia! For me the day seemed like any other day in Yogya except the school was closed. However, millions of Indonesians around the country went to cast their vote for Indonesia's next democratically elected president. From the news articles I have read, along with clips on tv and conversations with the locals, it seems that while democracy is beginning to take shape in Indonesia, they still have a long way to go. In fact, Indonesia is the world's 3rd largest democracy in the world, with something like 170 million eligible voters. But, as the presidential campaign shows, the political mischief of the Suharto-era is not completely gone in the 21st century. While there is no clear winner yet since votes are still being counted, SBY, the current president, seems to be pulling in the most votes so far. SBY needs a 50% majority to reclaim the presidency though id he falls short another election will occur in a few months between the top two candidates, making Wednesday'a election more like a primary. Whatever the outcome, it has been very interesting to watch the process, learn about the candidates, and attempt to translate all the political advertisements littering the street corners.
Somehow Melissa was able to procure the necessary ingredients to host a most wonderful Mexican taco feast in Yogya! I would say that in the end it was truly a blending of the cultures but she did have ground beef, taco seasoning, and a 7-layer guacamole dip! The moon was full on Tuesday night and we lingered around the roof top deck for a few hours eating, talking, and drinking some sangria! At Melissa's I met another American student, she's studying anthropology at UGA and I learned that she is in Indonesia searching for a possible field research site. It was quite a lovely evening; thanks Melissa.
Wednesday was election day for Indonesia! For me the day seemed like any other day in Yogya except the school was closed. However, millions of Indonesians around the country went to cast their vote for Indonesia's next democratically elected president. From the news articles I have read, along with clips on tv and conversations with the locals, it seems that while democracy is beginning to take shape in Indonesia, they still have a long way to go. In fact, Indonesia is the world's 3rd largest democracy in the world, with something like 170 million eligible voters. But, as the presidential campaign shows, the political mischief of the Suharto-era is not completely gone in the 21st century. While there is no clear winner yet since votes are still being counted, SBY, the current president, seems to be pulling in the most votes so far. SBY needs a 50% majority to reclaim the presidency though id he falls short another election will occur in a few months between the top two candidates, making Wednesday'a election more like a primary. Whatever the outcome, it has been very interesting to watch the process, learn about the candidates, and attempt to translate all the political advertisements littering the street corners.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
In & Around Solo
Yesterday we traveled northeast of Yogya to Solo to visit 3 new sites. First, we stopped in Solo at an Islamic boarding school, Pesantren Al-Muayyad, to learn about religious education in Indonesia. The school has ties to ICRS and Gadjah Mada which allowed for our visit, and we spent about 2 hours learning about the history of the pesantren and its role in Solo. The stereotype given by Westerners toward the activity of Islamic pesantrens has historically been very negative; however, Al-Muayyad is a very progressive, socially active organization that seems to be effecting a lot of good in Solo and around Indonesia. Somewhat ironically, perhaps, Solo tends to be a center for Islamic radicalism and we viewed a short video clip of religious-based violence from just a few years ago. The head of Al-Muayyad was prompt to emphasize the universality in religion as well as notions of religious tolerance, both within Islam and among other religions.
After our religion lesson for the day we got back in the car and headed up Mt. Lawu to see an historic Hindu temple, Temple Sukuh. When I say “up” Mt. Lawu it was really far up and very steep! Kudos to Mas Ramang for getting us up the hill safely! Sukuh Temple was one of the last Hindu temples built in Java, before (or during) the Islamic conquest of the island. It is described as an “erotic” temple and was visited by Hindu women to ensure fertility. As one might expect, then, the place has statues of naked men. I also found a statue of a turtle, kind of random.
Our last stop of the day was to Grojogan Sewu waterfall. After descending quite a few stairs we reached the bottom – and not after plenty of whining that it was too much physical work, pish posh. The views were nice, though not stunning. We climbed around the rocks for a bit, took some photos, then made our way back up the steps. Once at the entrance to the waterfall we still had another trek up a hill to reach the car. Local men were selling horse (more like pony) rides up the hill but I decided it would be more fun to run up the hill; I was off! Upon reaching the top I nearly collapsed and immediately bought some Propel-like energy water from an Ibu and guzzled it down. It felt good to run, though.
After our religion lesson for the day we got back in the car and headed up Mt. Lawu to see an historic Hindu temple, Temple Sukuh. When I say “up” Mt. Lawu it was really far up and very steep! Kudos to Mas Ramang for getting us up the hill safely! Sukuh Temple was one of the last Hindu temples built in Java, before (or during) the Islamic conquest of the island. It is described as an “erotic” temple and was visited by Hindu women to ensure fertility. As one might expect, then, the place has statues of naked men. I also found a statue of a turtle, kind of random.
Our last stop of the day was to Grojogan Sewu waterfall. After descending quite a few stairs we reached the bottom – and not after plenty of whining that it was too much physical work, pish posh. The views were nice, though not stunning. We climbed around the rocks for a bit, took some photos, then made our way back up the steps. Once at the entrance to the waterfall we still had another trek up a hill to reach the car. Local men were selling horse (more like pony) rides up the hill but I decided it would be more fun to run up the hill; I was off! Upon reaching the top I nearly collapsed and immediately bought some Propel-like energy water from an Ibu and guzzled it down. It felt good to run, though.
Monday, June 29, 2009
Bali 5k Weekend
This weekend’s adventure took me out of Java and down to the tropical island of Bali. What a world of difference there is, culturally speaking, between Javanese and Balinese life! First of all, the island of Bali is predominantly Hindu (over 90%) and the ways in which religious practice shapes every day life is rather obvious. Daily, locals bring offerings to the temples, flowers and some food tended to be the most common forms of offering. While speaking with an Indonesian friend in Bali, Hasan, I learned that the Balinese will often spend more of their income on constructing or maintaining a local temple than they will on their own housing. The role and function of the Hindu gods is foundational to Balinese life.
Our adventures on Saturday took us to a sacred Hindu place, Mt. Agung. One of Bali’s most impressive geographical sites, Mt. Agung is considered a sacred place among the Balinese. The views from this north Bali landmark were truly amazing. In the photos one can also see the neighboring Mt. Batur, an active volcano, boasting views just as impressive as Mt. Agung.
After experiencing the cool breeze of the mountainside, we traveled to Sangeh to visit a monkey forest. The forest is home to about 600 monkeys, belonging to various kingdoms within the forest. A local tour guide told us how the monkeys elect their chief leader. We saw one chief, a pregnant monkey, and a baby 2-week old monkey.
The last stop on Saturday afternoon was to Tanah Lot, another important site to Hindu culture. At Tanah Lot, Hindu temples sit on rocky cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean. For tourists, Tanah Lot is a popular destination for sunsets. Yes, we went primarily for the sunset, but the temple structures had an appeal that no sunset could rival. The evening turned out to be a bit cloudy and the sun disappeared behind thick grayish-blue clouds before hitting the horizon. Perhaps I will return to Tanah Lot some day, waiting for a more magnificent natural wonder.
My 5k race on Sunday was the primary reason for spending the weekend in Bali to begin with. So, early Sunday morning Yvette and I made our way to the Four Seasons on Jimbaran Bay. We arrived in time to see the beginning of the triathalon and watched as nearly 300 athletes ran into the warm waters of Jimbaran Bay to begin the 2+ hour athletic spectacle. A bit later in the morning the 5k took runners through the narrow and uneven streets of Jimbaran, while the last 100 meters or so turned back onto Four Seasons property for a run through the sand to the finish line. Thanks to Yvette I have a photo of me coming down the home stretch in the sand! It was a great experience.
On the way back to our hotel after the race we walked along the beach then made our way through some of the street vendors selling oleh-oleh. Stopping to look around we found some items of interest at a particular stall. Before long, I was speaking Bahasa Indonesian to the vendors and I began to draw a crowd of locals (apparently captivated at my language skills – haha). We chatted in a mix of English and Bahasa for 15 minutes or so and by the end of our conversation I had been given an Indoensian name. Well, really a Balinese name, Candra Wayan. Candra translates as “moon” and means beautiful (the Balinese consider a full moon to be quite beautiful) and Wayan indicates that I am the first born in my family. Candra Wayan, I like the way it sounds.
Now it is back to another week of school in Yogya. It won’t be long, however, until Christian arrives in Indonesia and we make out way back to the magical island of Bali.
Our adventures on Saturday took us to a sacred Hindu place, Mt. Agung. One of Bali’s most impressive geographical sites, Mt. Agung is considered a sacred place among the Balinese. The views from this north Bali landmark were truly amazing. In the photos one can also see the neighboring Mt. Batur, an active volcano, boasting views just as impressive as Mt. Agung.
After experiencing the cool breeze of the mountainside, we traveled to Sangeh to visit a monkey forest. The forest is home to about 600 monkeys, belonging to various kingdoms within the forest. A local tour guide told us how the monkeys elect their chief leader. We saw one chief, a pregnant monkey, and a baby 2-week old monkey.
The last stop on Saturday afternoon was to Tanah Lot, another important site to Hindu culture. At Tanah Lot, Hindu temples sit on rocky cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean. For tourists, Tanah Lot is a popular destination for sunsets. Yes, we went primarily for the sunset, but the temple structures had an appeal that no sunset could rival. The evening turned out to be a bit cloudy and the sun disappeared behind thick grayish-blue clouds before hitting the horizon. Perhaps I will return to Tanah Lot some day, waiting for a more magnificent natural wonder.
My 5k race on Sunday was the primary reason for spending the weekend in Bali to begin with. So, early Sunday morning Yvette and I made our way to the Four Seasons on Jimbaran Bay. We arrived in time to see the beginning of the triathalon and watched as nearly 300 athletes ran into the warm waters of Jimbaran Bay to begin the 2+ hour athletic spectacle. A bit later in the morning the 5k took runners through the narrow and uneven streets of Jimbaran, while the last 100 meters or so turned back onto Four Seasons property for a run through the sand to the finish line. Thanks to Yvette I have a photo of me coming down the home stretch in the sand! It was a great experience.
On the way back to our hotel after the race we walked along the beach then made our way through some of the street vendors selling oleh-oleh. Stopping to look around we found some items of interest at a particular stall. Before long, I was speaking Bahasa Indonesian to the vendors and I began to draw a crowd of locals (apparently captivated at my language skills – haha). We chatted in a mix of English and Bahasa for 15 minutes or so and by the end of our conversation I had been given an Indoensian name. Well, really a Balinese name, Candra Wayan. Candra translates as “moon” and means beautiful (the Balinese consider a full moon to be quite beautiful) and Wayan indicates that I am the first born in my family. Candra Wayan, I like the way it sounds.
Now it is back to another week of school in Yogya. It won’t be long, however, until Christian arrives in Indonesia and we make out way back to the magical island of Bali.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Birthdays and Weddings
This week has allowed me the opportunity to experience two festive events, Indonesian style.
Tuesday was Elis’ birthday and we celebrated by taking her and her family out to dinner at Gadjah Wong. When our meals arrived we sang Happy Birthday to Elis in English then enjoyed our wonderfully prepared meals. After dinner we turned our attention to the live band, playing a mix of country folk songs, many of them in English. Much to everyone’s surprise, Ingrid decided to sing along with the band for 2 songs! Near the end of out dinner the Gadjah Wong staff presented Elis with a beautiful fruit platter, decorated with simple flowers and lit up with candles. She received a second Happy Birthday song, this time in Indonesian. Overall, it was a lovely evening with friends, food, and birthday cheer!
On Wednesday I traveled with Chelsea and Anastasia up to the village of Kaliurang for Tommy’s wedding. Tommy is an ICRS student and he invited everyone from the ICRS to celebrate in his wedding. Tommy and his new bride Emy are Christians so the wedding paralleled a typical Christian wedding in the West. I did notice some differences from weddings in the West as well as some elements that might have been uniquely Indonesian. The wedding party was inclusive of the bride, groom, and each set of parents (no bridesmaids, groomsmen, etc). This rather simple set-up of 6 showed the family intimacy involved in marriage. At one point the bride and groom were kneeling in front of each set of parents, I presume for a blessing. Also, the parents were involved with the legal aspect of the wedding. After the vows and exchanging of rings the couple sat at a table to publicly sign legal marriage papers. Tommy approached us after the wedding to express his gratitude for us attending the ceremony. Quite honestly, though, I think we were the ones being blessed by being given the chance to share in his wedding joy!
Tuesday was Elis’ birthday and we celebrated by taking her and her family out to dinner at Gadjah Wong. When our meals arrived we sang Happy Birthday to Elis in English then enjoyed our wonderfully prepared meals. After dinner we turned our attention to the live band, playing a mix of country folk songs, many of them in English. Much to everyone’s surprise, Ingrid decided to sing along with the band for 2 songs! Near the end of out dinner the Gadjah Wong staff presented Elis with a beautiful fruit platter, decorated with simple flowers and lit up with candles. She received a second Happy Birthday song, this time in Indonesian. Overall, it was a lovely evening with friends, food, and birthday cheer!
On Wednesday I traveled with Chelsea and Anastasia up to the village of Kaliurang for Tommy’s wedding. Tommy is an ICRS student and he invited everyone from the ICRS to celebrate in his wedding. Tommy and his new bride Emy are Christians so the wedding paralleled a typical Christian wedding in the West. I did notice some differences from weddings in the West as well as some elements that might have been uniquely Indonesian. The wedding party was inclusive of the bride, groom, and each set of parents (no bridesmaids, groomsmen, etc). This rather simple set-up of 6 showed the family intimacy involved in marriage. At one point the bride and groom were kneeling in front of each set of parents, I presume for a blessing. Also, the parents were involved with the legal aspect of the wedding. After the vows and exchanging of rings the couple sat at a table to publicly sign legal marriage papers. Tommy approached us after the wedding to express his gratitude for us attending the ceremony. Quite honestly, though, I think we were the ones being blessed by being given the chance to share in his wedding joy!
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Ramayana Ballet
A few weekends ago we visited the Prambanan Temples located just outside Yogya and had the opportunity to explore the intricate stone carvings that decorate the ornate structures. The temples, built during the 9th century, are dedicated to the Hindu divinities, Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma, and the stone carvings illustrate the epic of Ramayana.
On Saturday evening the group returned to Prambanan to learn about the Ramayana myth by watching a traditional Hindu dance performance. The Ramayana story goes like this:
A princess, Shinta, and a prince, Rama, marry after a lengthy competition. One day, Shinta, Rama, and Rama’s brother are walking through the forest when a golden deer passes by. Now, this deer is actually a decoy set up by Rahwana, a ruler from another kingdom who wants to steal Shinta away from Rama. Innocently, Shinta asks Rama to capture the deer. So, Rama leaves his wife with his brother in search of the deer. Later, Rama’s brother leaves, too, but draws a magical circle around Shinta so that no evil will beset her in his absence. At this point Rahwana seizes the moment to capture Shinta but cannot penetrate the magic circle. So, he disguises himself as a beggar, luring Shinta out of the circle. Then, he steals her! During the trip back to Rahwana’s kingdom they encounter a bird named Jatayu who is suspicious of seeing Rahwana with Shinta. Unfortunately, Rahwana defeats the bird and leaves him for dead. Not long after, Rama and his brother come across the dying bird and Jatayu tells them that Rahwana has captured Shinta. On the way to rescue Shinta, Rama aids a white monkey, who in return, lends him an envoy of monkeys to help retrieve Shinta. Meanwhile, Rahwana and Shinta have arrived in Rahwana’s kingdom but Shinta refuses to become his wife. As a result, Rahwana wants to kill Shinta though his niece stops him from committing such an act. At about this time Rama and the monkeys build a bridge in order to cross the sea and attack Rahwana’s kingdom. A war breaks out and Rama triumphantly kills Rahwana with his bow. When reunited with Shinta, Rama doubts Shinta’s purity. Shinta, determined to prove her purity, is willing to burn herself. The god of fire helps her and she remains unscathed in the flames. Finally, Rama is convinced of Shinta’s purity and runs to meet her. The END.
Wow, that took longer to explain than I thought. At least the pictures will make sense (hopefully). We had VIP seating at the performance so I was able to get a few good pictures of the ballet. Some pictures have captions to help carry the story along. Enjoy!
On Saturday evening the group returned to Prambanan to learn about the Ramayana myth by watching a traditional Hindu dance performance. The Ramayana story goes like this:
A princess, Shinta, and a prince, Rama, marry after a lengthy competition. One day, Shinta, Rama, and Rama’s brother are walking through the forest when a golden deer passes by. Now, this deer is actually a decoy set up by Rahwana, a ruler from another kingdom who wants to steal Shinta away from Rama. Innocently, Shinta asks Rama to capture the deer. So, Rama leaves his wife with his brother in search of the deer. Later, Rama’s brother leaves, too, but draws a magical circle around Shinta so that no evil will beset her in his absence. At this point Rahwana seizes the moment to capture Shinta but cannot penetrate the magic circle. So, he disguises himself as a beggar, luring Shinta out of the circle. Then, he steals her! During the trip back to Rahwana’s kingdom they encounter a bird named Jatayu who is suspicious of seeing Rahwana with Shinta. Unfortunately, Rahwana defeats the bird and leaves him for dead. Not long after, Rama and his brother come across the dying bird and Jatayu tells them that Rahwana has captured Shinta. On the way to rescue Shinta, Rama aids a white monkey, who in return, lends him an envoy of monkeys to help retrieve Shinta. Meanwhile, Rahwana and Shinta have arrived in Rahwana’s kingdom but Shinta refuses to become his wife. As a result, Rahwana wants to kill Shinta though his niece stops him from committing such an act. At about this time Rama and the monkeys build a bridge in order to cross the sea and attack Rahwana’s kingdom. A war breaks out and Rama triumphantly kills Rahwana with his bow. When reunited with Shinta, Rama doubts Shinta’s purity. Shinta, determined to prove her purity, is willing to burn herself. The god of fire helps her and she remains unscathed in the flames. Finally, Rama is convinced of Shinta’s purity and runs to meet her. The END.
Wow, that took longer to explain than I thought. At least the pictures will make sense (hopefully). We had VIP seating at the performance so I was able to get a few good pictures of the ballet. Some pictures have captions to help carry the story along. Enjoy!
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Hidden Neighborhood Treasure
Earlier this week we came across a little treasure spot right in our neighborhood: the Sangam House. The Sangam House is an Indian-inspired yoga studio, restaurant, and boutique run by a lovely French couple with a truly international flair. After stumbling upon this neighborhood treasure and speaking to Pak Jean about yoga classes, Yvette and I signed up for 8 yoga sessions. The studio offers classes in hatha, tantra, and yin yoga most weeknight evenings. So, last night was our first class, hatha yoga. Diana, Yvette, and I arrived early and found a spot in the corner of the room to avoid drawing attention to our limited yoga capabilities. Hatha yoga focuses on breathing and posture. Timing breath and movement is also critical in hatha. For example, in the salutation to the sun one must time inhalation and exhalation with each movement. While this might seem simple it’s a more difficult to actually carry out. Overall the class was a success and we are excited about trying tantra yoga tonight!
I have also eaten in the Indian restaurant at Sangam. The dining atmosphere is so relaxing and the traditional Indian food is a nice change from my daily Indonesian fare. Top on my list of favorites at Sangam is the banana lassi and my favorite spot to perch is the wooden bench-like swing.
Pictures of Sangam will be posted to the Yogya photo album soon!
I have also eaten in the Indian restaurant at Sangam. The dining atmosphere is so relaxing and the traditional Indian food is a nice change from my daily Indonesian fare. Top on my list of favorites at Sangam is the banana lassi and my favorite spot to perch is the wooden bench-like swing.
Pictures of Sangam will be posted to the Yogya photo album soon!
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Javanese Jesus and the Indian Ocean
Our weekend excursion this week took us south of Yogya to the town on Bantul then on to the Indian Ocean. The stop in Bantul was truly a moment of religious syncretism. The local Catholic church, built by Dutch factory owners in the 1920s, shows what happens when European Catholicism is brought to the island of Java. Ganjuran Church offers mass daily and a massive stone shrine towers above the bamboo thatch work roof of the church space. Ascending the steps of the shrine one finds a status of a “Javanese Jesus.” Jesus, clothed in traditional Javanese dress, looks back toward the church. During our visit, a dozen or so Christian pilgrims were waiting to pray at the top of the shrine. To a degree, Ganjuran is a tourist place as oleh-oleh shops (souvenir) dot the main road, selling crosses, rosary beads, Jesus statues, and t-shirts.
After Bantul we journeyed a bit farther south to Parangtritis Beach where we were met with sweeping views of the Indian Ocean. Weekends at Parangtritis are busy as many locals from Yogya travel to the sea for sun and breeze. However, swimming in the ocean is strictly forbidden due to strong rip currents. And, quite honestly, the waves looked a bit intimidating, too. So, instead of a swim we took a “dokar” ride along the shore (small horse-drawn cart with local Indonesian man riding on the side guiding the horse). We were taken to a quiet part of the beach that is considered sacred in Javanese culture. At this site locals make offerings to the sea.
As the sun was setting we ventured down the beach a bit to Depok for a seafood feast. Here, local fishermen sell their fresh catches then a warung prepares the feast. Our group picked out a sampling of sea treats…ranging from snapper and tuna to crabs, squid, and shrimp. At the warung we all sat on the floor around low tables as the rice, vegetables, and seafood were being served. By the end of the evening we were all full and exhausted.
After Bantul we journeyed a bit farther south to Parangtritis Beach where we were met with sweeping views of the Indian Ocean. Weekends at Parangtritis are busy as many locals from Yogya travel to the sea for sun and breeze. However, swimming in the ocean is strictly forbidden due to strong rip currents. And, quite honestly, the waves looked a bit intimidating, too. So, instead of a swim we took a “dokar” ride along the shore (small horse-drawn cart with local Indonesian man riding on the side guiding the horse). We were taken to a quiet part of the beach that is considered sacred in Javanese culture. At this site locals make offerings to the sea.
As the sun was setting we ventured down the beach a bit to Depok for a seafood feast. Here, local fishermen sell their fresh catches then a warung prepares the feast. Our group picked out a sampling of sea treats…ranging from snapper and tuna to crabs, squid, and shrimp. At the warung we all sat on the floor around low tables as the rice, vegetables, and seafood were being served. By the end of the evening we were all full and exhausted.
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Movie Theater and Indonesian Wine
Thursdays are usually quiet around the university since none of the ICRS students have class. So, not really wanting to commit my day to reading and studying, Yvette and I ventured down to Jalan Solo to visit the new Cineplex. All of the movies are in English with Indonesian subtitles, and while the films would be considered “old” releases in the States, most of the titles are still “new” to me (I rarely visit the theater at home). So, for 2 glorious hours we escaped the heat of the day and saw Tom Hanks as Professor Langdon in Angels and Demons…it was pretty good. Before entering the theater people linger out in the lobby area – tons of people at 3:00 on a Thursday, rather odd. Nonetheless, an message is played over the loudspeaker to announce that the theater for a particular show is now opening. Our film was being shown in theater number 4….and, I am proud to say, my bahasa Indonesian was “good enough” to hear that theater empat was now open! Knowing numbers in any language is quite an asset….for money, time, addresses, quantity….I find I use my numbers a lot!
After about 2 weeks in Indonesia I had my first sip of alcohol tonight! Overall, Indonesians do not drink much (especially to get drunk) – it’s looked down upon with the heavy Muslim influence. However, many of the nicer restaurants will serve beer and wine. The imported wine is very expensive…both in Indonesian and U.S. standards. A few of us visited one of the “upscale” restaurants in Yogya that served some local Indonesian wine, so I thought I would give it a try. Must admit, not too impressed, Indonesian has many things to offer the world…wine is not one of them! Nonetheless, it’s rather neat to say I have sampled some of the local drink. The rest of the dinner was nice, too, probably one of the best meals I have had in Yogya thus far.
Guess I need to get back to homework on Friday; it’s not the weekend (yet)!
After about 2 weeks in Indonesia I had my first sip of alcohol tonight! Overall, Indonesians do not drink much (especially to get drunk) – it’s looked down upon with the heavy Muslim influence. However, many of the nicer restaurants will serve beer and wine. The imported wine is very expensive…both in Indonesian and U.S. standards. A few of us visited one of the “upscale” restaurants in Yogya that served some local Indonesian wine, so I thought I would give it a try. Must admit, not too impressed, Indonesian has many things to offer the world…wine is not one of them! Nonetheless, it’s rather neat to say I have sampled some of the local drink. The rest of the dinner was nice, too, probably one of the best meals I have had in Yogya thus far.
Guess I need to get back to homework on Friday; it’s not the weekend (yet)!
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
Photos
Uploading pictures to either the blog or Facebook is painfully slow. So, to easily view photos go to this link:
http://picasaweb.google.com/jennifertlancaster
Many photos have captions and roughly follow in chronological order.
Enjoy!
http://picasaweb.google.com/jennifertlancaster
Many photos have captions and roughly follow in chronological order.
Enjoy!
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Borobudur and Prambanan
Yesterday was a full day of sight-seeing around central Java. We left at the ungodly hour of 6:00am to begin our drive to Borobudur (about an hour away). There was a method behind the madness of leaving so early: (1) arrive before the crowds…by the time we left the place was swarming with people and (2) beat the heat! The drive north to Borobudur was not fancy but we were met with some stunning views of lush greenery and rice paddies. Upon arriving at the temple our group of 9 Americans and 6 Indonesians was greeted with coffee and tea before our walk to the temple. Borobudur is a Buddhist temple, constructed in the 9th century, the height of Buddhism in Java. Now, the temple is a place of pilgrimage and is listed as a World Heritage Site. Stone carvings along the temple walls could captivate one’s attention for hours (until the heat gets the best of you). In the photo album I have included a few close-up pictures of the stone carvings. Also, statues and carvings of Buddha are everywhere around the temple. Many of the statues along the outside walls are decapitated Buddhas; legend says that invaders tore off the heads because they thought gold was stored inside. I would be curious to know exactly how many Buddha statues adorn the temple; my guess would be thousands!
Our next stop was the mountain pass named Ketep. We arrived a little after lunchtime and by then the clouds had settled in for the afternoon, impeding our view of the neighboring mountain tops. Supposedly, from atop Ketep one is be able to see 4 different mountains, all in different directions; but, all we saw was the green valley and dense fog. The intense cloud cover at this time of year is abnormal because by June central Java should be well into the dry season. However, it seems to rain every few days here and clouds continue to cover the sky most afternoons (which isn’t too bad, really, because it blocks some of the intense sun). Nonetheless, the viewing conditions at Ketep weren’t too ideal, but I did enjoy the cooler mountain temperature!
Our last stop of the day was Prambanan Temple, the Hindu temple just outside Yogya. By the time we arrived at Prambanan I was totally exhausted and kind-of over being a tourist for the day. Alas, I forced myself to take my camera out of its case and at least take a few pictures. (So, when you look at the albums there are quite a few at Borobudur and fewer at Prambanan.) Many of the temples at Prambanan are closed to the public due to damage incurred by an earthquake a few years back. At Prambanan we encountered quite a few school groups of Indonesian children visiting the historical site.
I am noticing a trend where young Indonesian school children come running up with pencil and paper to talk to me (and everyone else in the group) at these historical/tourist sites. They notice my white skin and assume I am from America and that I speak English. Then, they begin a conversation (most are quite assertive). It goes something like this….
“Excuse me miss.” I say, “Yes.” They ask, “Do you speak English.” Again I respond with “Yes.” Then they proceed to ask me a series of questions….what is my name, where am I from, how long will I be in Indonesia, do I think it is hot here, what type of food do I like, etc. At the end of the dialogue (more like a question-and-answer session, really) they ask to take a photo with me. When I say “yes” to this request they run to gather around me, and someone takes a photo with me (the tall white American) in the center and a gaggle of 12 year-old Indonesians around me. It’s an experience, that’s for sure. Most of the time I do not mind the questioning by the children; although I have devised a plan for those days when I simply do not want to engage….. “Je ne parle pas Anglais!”
Our next stop was the mountain pass named Ketep. We arrived a little after lunchtime and by then the clouds had settled in for the afternoon, impeding our view of the neighboring mountain tops. Supposedly, from atop Ketep one is be able to see 4 different mountains, all in different directions; but, all we saw was the green valley and dense fog. The intense cloud cover at this time of year is abnormal because by June central Java should be well into the dry season. However, it seems to rain every few days here and clouds continue to cover the sky most afternoons (which isn’t too bad, really, because it blocks some of the intense sun). Nonetheless, the viewing conditions at Ketep weren’t too ideal, but I did enjoy the cooler mountain temperature!
Our last stop of the day was Prambanan Temple, the Hindu temple just outside Yogya. By the time we arrived at Prambanan I was totally exhausted and kind-of over being a tourist for the day. Alas, I forced myself to take my camera out of its case and at least take a few pictures. (So, when you look at the albums there are quite a few at Borobudur and fewer at Prambanan.) Many of the temples at Prambanan are closed to the public due to damage incurred by an earthquake a few years back. At Prambanan we encountered quite a few school groups of Indonesian children visiting the historical site.
I am noticing a trend where young Indonesian school children come running up with pencil and paper to talk to me (and everyone else in the group) at these historical/tourist sites. They notice my white skin and assume I am from America and that I speak English. Then, they begin a conversation (most are quite assertive). It goes something like this….
“Excuse me miss.” I say, “Yes.” They ask, “Do you speak English.” Again I respond with “Yes.” Then they proceed to ask me a series of questions….what is my name, where am I from, how long will I be in Indonesia, do I think it is hot here, what type of food do I like, etc. At the end of the dialogue (more like a question-and-answer session, really) they ask to take a photo with me. When I say “yes” to this request they run to gather around me, and someone takes a photo with me (the tall white American) in the center and a gaggle of 12 year-old Indonesians around me. It’s an experience, that’s for sure. Most of the time I do not mind the questioning by the children; although I have devised a plan for those days when I simply do not want to engage….. “Je ne parle pas Anglais!”
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Motor Bikes & Indonesian TV
I took my first motor bike ride yesterday, thanks to Romang. He offered to drive me from the university back to the ICRS house since I was loaded down with books and a computer. Transportation by way of motor bike is by far the most common way of getting around in Yogya. While I would not consider Yogya an Asian mega-city, it is large and not all that walker-friendly. In fact, I see very few Indonesians walking around Yogya. Most mornings we walk from the ICRS house to the university (takes about 10 minutes) and we are the only ones walking. I am certain that as the locals pass us on their motor bikes they are thinking we are the "crazy Americans." So, to say I have been on a motor bike is like a right-of-passage in Yogya culture.
The ICRS house is home to the 7 Luce exchange students as well as 4 Indonesian students entering the PhD program at ICRS. The Indonesians are taking an intensive English course this summer and they have the opportunity to practice their English with all of us native speakers in the house. So, last night some of us were watching TV downstairs in the large living area. During the commerical breaks I was interested in seeing what type of products/services were being advertised on the Indonesian circuit. Much of the content is simliar to that in the U.S. - food and grocery, beauty products, etc (no car commercials, ironically). One beauty product commercial was advertising skin whitening lotion. In Indonesia women seek to have lighter skin so they buy whitening lotion or visit the spa for a whitening treatment. Culturally, lighter skin is considered more beautiful, at least in the large cities. I found this interesting since in the U.S. the exact opposite is true.
Seeing this commercial for skin whitening lotion prompted a discussion (in English) between myself and Tri, one of the Indonesian students. He explained to me how lighter skin was valued and I told him how tan skin was attractive in the States. In fact, I think he learned a few new English words....like sunless tanner and tanning bed. He laughed when I explained the tanning bed.
I have been enjoying my conversations with the Indonesian students; they contribute so much to my learning of the local culture and I am truly impressed with their skills in the English language.
The ICRS house is home to the 7 Luce exchange students as well as 4 Indonesian students entering the PhD program at ICRS. The Indonesians are taking an intensive English course this summer and they have the opportunity to practice their English with all of us native speakers in the house. So, last night some of us were watching TV downstairs in the large living area. During the commerical breaks I was interested in seeing what type of products/services were being advertised on the Indonesian circuit. Much of the content is simliar to that in the U.S. - food and grocery, beauty products, etc (no car commercials, ironically). One beauty product commercial was advertising skin whitening lotion. In Indonesia women seek to have lighter skin so they buy whitening lotion or visit the spa for a whitening treatment. Culturally, lighter skin is considered more beautiful, at least in the large cities. I found this interesting since in the U.S. the exact opposite is true.
Seeing this commercial for skin whitening lotion prompted a discussion (in English) between myself and Tri, one of the Indonesian students. He explained to me how lighter skin was valued and I told him how tan skin was attractive in the States. In fact, I think he learned a few new English words....like sunless tanner and tanning bed. He laughed when I explained the tanning bed.
I have been enjoying my conversations with the Indonesian students; they contribute so much to my learning of the local culture and I am truly impressed with their skills in the English language.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
First Day of School
So, today is my first day of school at UGM and I do not even have class! At this point, I am still waiting for details about scheduling and books since my primary goal here at UGM this summer revolves around taking an independent study in Islam. Instead of sitting in class, then, I am again to be found on the 3rd floor lounge accessing the internet.
Some of the Luce exchange students (myself included) have been living in the ICRS house since late last week....it really is an amazing place. A large, 2-story, semi-open air house boasting 11 bedrooms is a lovely place to call home this summer. It is about a 10 minute walk along curvy side streets to reach the university; at 10am this morning the 10 minutes walk was almost unbearable....so hot! I am cooling now, slowly. I have taken some photos of the house and my room but at this point I am unable to upload them to the blog (keep getting a "loading" message with a swirling circle). Alas, I will keep trying.
On Saturday I was privileged to be accompanied most of the day by my new friend, Mbak Elis...Mbak trabslates "sister" and is used to address women of like age or social status. Elis took us to the Galleria, a huge indoor mall, where we promptly made our way to the salon and spa. Elis spoke to the ladies at the desk and within a few minutes I was laying down with a cold press over my eyes. Never having had an Indonesian spa treatment I was looking forward to the next 2 hours. And, it was heaven...for only $8.50USD. I think this might have to become a regular event, let's say once a week or so!
Yesterday was Sunday and I attended and English-speaking church service with my new friends, Pak David and Ibu Karen....Pak is like "Mr." and Ibu would be "Mrs." David and Karen are from the States though living in Indonesia this year to teach English to the graduate students here at ICRS. The church is interdenominational and meets in a conference room of a local hotel. Yesterday's sermon focused on the reconciliation of Pentecost and was preached by a Mennonite :). One of my favorite Harry Emerson Fosdick hymns set the tone for the service. It was nice; I think I will return for the service next week.
Lunch in the canteen will be served soon so now I am off to study some Bahasa for a bit....I am doing alright with the langauge, too. So far I have learned to communicate with taxi drivers (and not get lost), the laundry lady (saya membawa baju), and at restaurants. In fact, I am thinking about signing up for Bahasa lessons.
Some of the Luce exchange students (myself included) have been living in the ICRS house since late last week....it really is an amazing place. A large, 2-story, semi-open air house boasting 11 bedrooms is a lovely place to call home this summer. It is about a 10 minute walk along curvy side streets to reach the university; at 10am this morning the 10 minutes walk was almost unbearable....so hot! I am cooling now, slowly. I have taken some photos of the house and my room but at this point I am unable to upload them to the blog (keep getting a "loading" message with a swirling circle). Alas, I will keep trying.
On Saturday I was privileged to be accompanied most of the day by my new friend, Mbak Elis...Mbak trabslates "sister" and is used to address women of like age or social status. Elis took us to the Galleria, a huge indoor mall, where we promptly made our way to the salon and spa. Elis spoke to the ladies at the desk and within a few minutes I was laying down with a cold press over my eyes. Never having had an Indonesian spa treatment I was looking forward to the next 2 hours. And, it was heaven...for only $8.50USD. I think this might have to become a regular event, let's say once a week or so!
Yesterday was Sunday and I attended and English-speaking church service with my new friends, Pak David and Ibu Karen....Pak is like "Mr." and Ibu would be "Mrs." David and Karen are from the States though living in Indonesia this year to teach English to the graduate students here at ICRS. The church is interdenominational and meets in a conference room of a local hotel. Yesterday's sermon focused on the reconciliation of Pentecost and was preached by a Mennonite :). One of my favorite Harry Emerson Fosdick hymns set the tone for the service. It was nice; I think I will return for the service next week.
Lunch in the canteen will be served soon so now I am off to study some Bahasa for a bit....I am doing alright with the langauge, too. So far I have learned to communicate with taxi drivers (and not get lost), the laundry lady (saya membawa baju), and at restaurants. In fact, I am thinking about signing up for Bahasa lessons.
Thursday, May 28, 2009
the last week...Dubai
Goodness, finding reliable internet has been quite a challenge and there has been so much going on to write about! In the past week I have taken trains and planes half way around the world and now I find myself perched on the 3rd floor of the UGM graduate studies building, cooling off after my 10 minute walk from my house to the university. But that's getting too far ahead....
After leaving the States last Wednesday I spent 3 days in Dubai with my friend from Temple, Chelsea. It was a nice stopover in the sense that we could gradually adjust to jet lag and see a city we have never seen before. Dubai is really a place like no other. In the middle of the desert, buildings reach toward the heavens and construction abounds....they are building roads, houses, a rail system, hotels, malls, and huge office buildings! It's a bit overwhelming....when driving at night the road is consumed with trucks and construction vehicles. The consumerism in Dubai is quite apparent, too. The Mall of the Emirates boasts an indoor ski slope!
One evening we did a very "touristy" thing...a desert safari. Through the hotel we signed up for an extreme adventure into the desert. Just from the name, "extreme adventure" one ought to take it as a sign of ultra-touristy. The drive through the desert was actually quite cool! The red sand truly sparkled against the glaring sun and not knowing what was over the next dune was a bit exhilarating. After the safari we were taken to a campsite where "traditional" food was prepared and guests could take a camel ride, smoke sheesha, or get a henna tatoo. This part was so cheesy! During the camel ride your picture was taken and you could purchase it for something like $15USD; I felt like I was at an amusement park when your picture is taken on the roller coaster. Nonetheless, the desert safari was worth it.
After leaving the States last Wednesday I spent 3 days in Dubai with my friend from Temple, Chelsea. It was a nice stopover in the sense that we could gradually adjust to jet lag and see a city we have never seen before. Dubai is really a place like no other. In the middle of the desert, buildings reach toward the heavens and construction abounds....they are building roads, houses, a rail system, hotels, malls, and huge office buildings! It's a bit overwhelming....when driving at night the road is consumed with trucks and construction vehicles. The consumerism in Dubai is quite apparent, too. The Mall of the Emirates boasts an indoor ski slope!
One evening we did a very "touristy" thing...a desert safari. Through the hotel we signed up for an extreme adventure into the desert. Just from the name, "extreme adventure" one ought to take it as a sign of ultra-touristy. The drive through the desert was actually quite cool! The red sand truly sparkled against the glaring sun and not knowing what was over the next dune was a bit exhilarating. After the safari we were taken to a campsite where "traditional" food was prepared and guests could take a camel ride, smoke sheesha, or get a henna tatoo. This part was so cheesy! During the camel ride your picture was taken and you could purchase it for something like $15USD; I felt like I was at an amusement park when your picture is taken on the roller coaster. Nonetheless, the desert safari was worth it.
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Counting Down
The semester at Temple is winding down quickly...1 more class, one more paper, and a final...then it is full attention to getting ready for the summer! Christian is working in China so it has been very quiet around the house for the past 2 weeks. I must say, if there is ever an opportune time for him to travel, well, the end of the semester is perfect. However, it will still be another 2 weeks before he's home.
I will be heading up to New York on May 20th to begin my journey. I am flying with a friend from Temple, Chelsea, so the 13 hour flight from JFK to Dubai might not seem like days with a friend nearby. Chelsea and I arrive in Dubai the evening of the 21st and we have scheduled a brief stopover for a few days on sightseeing. We leave again on the morning of the 25th (very early morning) to travel to Jakarta, the capital of Indonesia. Finally, we will arrive at Gadjah Mada University in Yogyakarta...our destination for the next 2 months!
At this point, I am still receiving details as to the logistics of life in Yogya (common abbreviation for Yogyakarta)....housing, classes, etc. However, I feel like I am pretty ready to go....Visa in hand, plane tickets booked, a packing list started, oh, and an Indonesian phrasebook graciously donated by a Temple colleague!
Perhaps most exciting will be at the end of my study when Christian arrives in Indonesia on August 1st. We are planning to travel around Indonesia for 3 weeks...more on that as the time nears.
Monday, March 23, 2009
2 Months and Counting
Hey Everyone,
In just about 2 months I will be all packed and en route to Yogyakarta, Indonesia! I have created this blog as a way to keep family and friends updated during my travels, so check back throughout the summer to see what's new with me half way around the world.
As far as planning goes, the plane tickets are booked and I am in the process of filing for a visa (so I don't get kicked out of the country). Also, in the coming weeks I will attempt to sew some skirts appropriate for everyday life in a Muslim country...I'll let you know how that goes.
In just about 2 months I will be all packed and en route to Yogyakarta, Indonesia! I have created this blog as a way to keep family and friends updated during my travels, so check back throughout the summer to see what's new with me half way around the world.
As far as planning goes, the plane tickets are booked and I am in the process of filing for a visa (so I don't get kicked out of the country). Also, in the coming weeks I will attempt to sew some skirts appropriate for everyday life in a Muslim country...I'll let you know how that goes.
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