So I realize it has been a few weeks since my last post. School work has been winding down and nothing of real interest has been happening in Yogya. As a result, a few of us decided to take a little trip to the beach for a few days!
I went with Chelsea and Anastasia to Sulawesi...Indonesian island to the east of Java. We left on Saturday and flew into Makassar, a large industrial port city without a great beach scene. Wanting to escape the city we traveled to Pantai Bira, about 250 km (155 miles, ish) away. After 6 hours in the Kjang (yes, 6!) we reached Bira and began looking for a place to stay. The town appeared as if it was once a thriving beachside tourist destination though from all outside observations the place is in decline. On our third attempt we found a suitable bungalow at the Bira Beach Hotel...it would have to suffice for 4 nights.
The next three days were spent reading/relaxing/swimming/walking the beach/eating. Really, put these events in any order and that was life for a few days! On Sunday the beach was crowded with locals from Makassar but during the week we only encountered other "bule" along the sandy white shores of Bira! Nearly all of our meals were consumed at the same beach front restaurant and on our second day we befriended an Australian living in Bira for a few months to train for an upcoming swimming competition. Plus, there was plenty of cold Beer Bintang to be had at this place so no one could complain too much.
In the end, Anastasia and I ended up with a brown glow from our days in the sun, while Chelsea maintained her pasty white "yankee" look from hiding under rocks along the shore. On the trip back to Makassar we wisened-up and hired a private Kjang which got us into the city in nearly half the time as it took to reach Bira 4 days earlier...live and learn, I guess.
So, back in Yogya now and eagerly awaiting Christian's arrival in Indonesia on Saturday night! Tomorrow will be a spa day...my last trip to Martha Tilaar. I will enjoy, for sure.
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Terlalu Pedas
After nearly 2 months of eating Indonesian food on a daily basis I thought I was getting used to the rice, the chicken, the vegetables, etc. After all, I have trained myself to say “tanpa telur” each time I order a meal, no matter what it is. Tanpa telur means without egg – Indonesians tend to add egg to nearly every dish; yuck! Well, now it seems that I need to also add the phrase “tidak pedas” to my food orders. For lunch today I ordered nasi goreng, a very common rice dish. When the plate arrived at my table I was looking forward to a filling (rice is very filling) meal. In less than two full bites my eyes had become as large as bug eyes and I was reaching for the nearby napkin to wipe my dripping nose. The nasi goreng was SOOOO spicy! In fact, I think it was the spiciest thing I have EVER eaten. The kind waitress saw the distress in my face and came to my table where I barely managed to say (more like whimper), “terlalu pedas.” She let out a little giggle, undoubtedly thinking I was some crazy American that couldn’t ever tolerate simple nasi goreng. Nonetheless, she took the plate away and returned a few minutes later with another dish of rice, tidak pedas! Thank goodness.
In other news….I have been reading some great novels over the past few weeks thanks to the Library O’Diana. My favorite so far is "Suite Francaise" written during WWII by Irene Nemirovsky, a Russian Jew living in France. The manuscript was not published until this century and the whole story remains untold due to her untimely death at the hands of the Nazis in 1942. It’s an absolutely gripping novel of what it means to be human; I highly recommend it. I also finished reading “Memoirs of a Geisha” which is now a film. As always, I am a few years behind on the movie scene, oh well. And just this morning I finished “The Lazarus Project,” another novel addressing the plight of humanity and the role that religion, war, and elitism unequivocally play in our human destinies. Sitting on my desk now is “The Elegance of the Hedgehog;” I will let you know how it turns out in a few days.
In other news….I have been reading some great novels over the past few weeks thanks to the Library O’Diana. My favorite so far is "Suite Francaise" written during WWII by Irene Nemirovsky, a Russian Jew living in France. The manuscript was not published until this century and the whole story remains untold due to her untimely death at the hands of the Nazis in 1942. It’s an absolutely gripping novel of what it means to be human; I highly recommend it. I also finished reading “Memoirs of a Geisha” which is now a film. As always, I am a few years behind on the movie scene, oh well. And just this morning I finished “The Lazarus Project,” another novel addressing the plight of humanity and the role that religion, war, and elitism unequivocally play in our human destinies. Sitting on my desk now is “The Elegance of the Hedgehog;” I will let you know how it turns out in a few days.
Monday, July 13, 2009
Salatiga
I never thought I would actually be cold this summer in Indonesia, but on Saturday morning I stood looking to the east at 5 am with goosebumps covering my arms and legs. Why was I awake at 5 am one might ask. Well, I was up to see the sunrise, of course. I heard the call to prayer a little before 5 and decided it was about time to head outside. Having some sense that it might be a bit chilly I grabbed my cardigan and headed out, camera in tow. The sunrise was lovely, so many colors illuminating the sky then eventually reflecting off the neighboring mountains.
Salatiga is in Central Java, north of Yogya and during the trip we visited a Buddhist college, Syailendra Buddhist College, up in the mountains then made our way to the Ambarawa Railway Museum. For my Lancaster friends, one could liken the railway museum to the Strasburg Railroad. For a few thousand rupiah the gang piled on the tourist train for an hour train ride through the countryside. I must admit, it was quite nice. The mountain views were stunning and as we passed acres and acres of rice fields I was truly impressed by the local agricultural practices.
We stayed over night in Salatiga at a Christian retreat center like place on a coffee plantation. Before the trip I had high hopes for finding some whole coffee beans at the plantation to bring back to the States. When I mentioned this to my mom on the phone she suggested that I look for some in the local gift shop and inquire about having some beans shipped directly to the U.S. At the time I thought this was a brilliant idea....then I re-entered the reality that is Indonesia! There would be no such gift shop to purchase (and don't even think about shipping) coffee beans. In fact, I consider myself lucky to simply have enjoyed a cup of coffee on Saturday morning. Alas, Pak Nik saved me from my troubles and procured for me a kilo of coffee. The search for more "oleh-oleh" continues, nonetheless.
Salatiga is in Central Java, north of Yogya and during the trip we visited a Buddhist college, Syailendra Buddhist College, up in the mountains then made our way to the Ambarawa Railway Museum. For my Lancaster friends, one could liken the railway museum to the Strasburg Railroad. For a few thousand rupiah the gang piled on the tourist train for an hour train ride through the countryside. I must admit, it was quite nice. The mountain views were stunning and as we passed acres and acres of rice fields I was truly impressed by the local agricultural practices.
We stayed over night in Salatiga at a Christian retreat center like place on a coffee plantation. Before the trip I had high hopes for finding some whole coffee beans at the plantation to bring back to the States. When I mentioned this to my mom on the phone she suggested that I look for some in the local gift shop and inquire about having some beans shipped directly to the U.S. At the time I thought this was a brilliant idea....then I re-entered the reality that is Indonesia! There would be no such gift shop to purchase (and don't even think about shipping) coffee beans. In fact, I consider myself lucky to simply have enjoyed a cup of coffee on Saturday morning. Alas, Pak Nik saved me from my troubles and procured for me a kilo of coffee. The search for more "oleh-oleh" continues, nonetheless.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Taco Tuesday and Election Wednesday
It's Friday now but earlier this week some highlights include Tuesday night tacos at Melissa's place and the Indonesian presidential election on Wednesday.
Somehow Melissa was able to procure the necessary ingredients to host a most wonderful Mexican taco feast in Yogya! I would say that in the end it was truly a blending of the cultures but she did have ground beef, taco seasoning, and a 7-layer guacamole dip! The moon was full on Tuesday night and we lingered around the roof top deck for a few hours eating, talking, and drinking some sangria! At Melissa's I met another American student, she's studying anthropology at UGA and I learned that she is in Indonesia searching for a possible field research site. It was quite a lovely evening; thanks Melissa.
Wednesday was election day for Indonesia! For me the day seemed like any other day in Yogya except the school was closed. However, millions of Indonesians around the country went to cast their vote for Indonesia's next democratically elected president. From the news articles I have read, along with clips on tv and conversations with the locals, it seems that while democracy is beginning to take shape in Indonesia, they still have a long way to go. In fact, Indonesia is the world's 3rd largest democracy in the world, with something like 170 million eligible voters. But, as the presidential campaign shows, the political mischief of the Suharto-era is not completely gone in the 21st century. While there is no clear winner yet since votes are still being counted, SBY, the current president, seems to be pulling in the most votes so far. SBY needs a 50% majority to reclaim the presidency though id he falls short another election will occur in a few months between the top two candidates, making Wednesday'a election more like a primary. Whatever the outcome, it has been very interesting to watch the process, learn about the candidates, and attempt to translate all the political advertisements littering the street corners.
Somehow Melissa was able to procure the necessary ingredients to host a most wonderful Mexican taco feast in Yogya! I would say that in the end it was truly a blending of the cultures but she did have ground beef, taco seasoning, and a 7-layer guacamole dip! The moon was full on Tuesday night and we lingered around the roof top deck for a few hours eating, talking, and drinking some sangria! At Melissa's I met another American student, she's studying anthropology at UGA and I learned that she is in Indonesia searching for a possible field research site. It was quite a lovely evening; thanks Melissa.
Wednesday was election day for Indonesia! For me the day seemed like any other day in Yogya except the school was closed. However, millions of Indonesians around the country went to cast their vote for Indonesia's next democratically elected president. From the news articles I have read, along with clips on tv and conversations with the locals, it seems that while democracy is beginning to take shape in Indonesia, they still have a long way to go. In fact, Indonesia is the world's 3rd largest democracy in the world, with something like 170 million eligible voters. But, as the presidential campaign shows, the political mischief of the Suharto-era is not completely gone in the 21st century. While there is no clear winner yet since votes are still being counted, SBY, the current president, seems to be pulling in the most votes so far. SBY needs a 50% majority to reclaim the presidency though id he falls short another election will occur in a few months between the top two candidates, making Wednesday'a election more like a primary. Whatever the outcome, it has been very interesting to watch the process, learn about the candidates, and attempt to translate all the political advertisements littering the street corners.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
In & Around Solo
Yesterday we traveled northeast of Yogya to Solo to visit 3 new sites. First, we stopped in Solo at an Islamic boarding school, Pesantren Al-Muayyad, to learn about religious education in Indonesia. The school has ties to ICRS and Gadjah Mada which allowed for our visit, and we spent about 2 hours learning about the history of the pesantren and its role in Solo. The stereotype given by Westerners toward the activity of Islamic pesantrens has historically been very negative; however, Al-Muayyad is a very progressive, socially active organization that seems to be effecting a lot of good in Solo and around Indonesia. Somewhat ironically, perhaps, Solo tends to be a center for Islamic radicalism and we viewed a short video clip of religious-based violence from just a few years ago. The head of Al-Muayyad was prompt to emphasize the universality in religion as well as notions of religious tolerance, both within Islam and among other religions.
After our religion lesson for the day we got back in the car and headed up Mt. Lawu to see an historic Hindu temple, Temple Sukuh. When I say “up” Mt. Lawu it was really far up and very steep! Kudos to Mas Ramang for getting us up the hill safely! Sukuh Temple was one of the last Hindu temples built in Java, before (or during) the Islamic conquest of the island. It is described as an “erotic” temple and was visited by Hindu women to ensure fertility. As one might expect, then, the place has statues of naked men. I also found a statue of a turtle, kind of random.
Our last stop of the day was to Grojogan Sewu waterfall. After descending quite a few stairs we reached the bottom – and not after plenty of whining that it was too much physical work, pish posh. The views were nice, though not stunning. We climbed around the rocks for a bit, took some photos, then made our way back up the steps. Once at the entrance to the waterfall we still had another trek up a hill to reach the car. Local men were selling horse (more like pony) rides up the hill but I decided it would be more fun to run up the hill; I was off! Upon reaching the top I nearly collapsed and immediately bought some Propel-like energy water from an Ibu and guzzled it down. It felt good to run, though.
After our religion lesson for the day we got back in the car and headed up Mt. Lawu to see an historic Hindu temple, Temple Sukuh. When I say “up” Mt. Lawu it was really far up and very steep! Kudos to Mas Ramang for getting us up the hill safely! Sukuh Temple was one of the last Hindu temples built in Java, before (or during) the Islamic conquest of the island. It is described as an “erotic” temple and was visited by Hindu women to ensure fertility. As one might expect, then, the place has statues of naked men. I also found a statue of a turtle, kind of random.
Our last stop of the day was to Grojogan Sewu waterfall. After descending quite a few stairs we reached the bottom – and not after plenty of whining that it was too much physical work, pish posh. The views were nice, though not stunning. We climbed around the rocks for a bit, took some photos, then made our way back up the steps. Once at the entrance to the waterfall we still had another trek up a hill to reach the car. Local men were selling horse (more like pony) rides up the hill but I decided it would be more fun to run up the hill; I was off! Upon reaching the top I nearly collapsed and immediately bought some Propel-like energy water from an Ibu and guzzled it down. It felt good to run, though.
Monday, June 29, 2009
Bali 5k Weekend
This weekend’s adventure took me out of Java and down to the tropical island of Bali. What a world of difference there is, culturally speaking, between Javanese and Balinese life! First of all, the island of Bali is predominantly Hindu (over 90%) and the ways in which religious practice shapes every day life is rather obvious. Daily, locals bring offerings to the temples, flowers and some food tended to be the most common forms of offering. While speaking with an Indonesian friend in Bali, Hasan, I learned that the Balinese will often spend more of their income on constructing or maintaining a local temple than they will on their own housing. The role and function of the Hindu gods is foundational to Balinese life.
Our adventures on Saturday took us to a sacred Hindu place, Mt. Agung. One of Bali’s most impressive geographical sites, Mt. Agung is considered a sacred place among the Balinese. The views from this north Bali landmark were truly amazing. In the photos one can also see the neighboring Mt. Batur, an active volcano, boasting views just as impressive as Mt. Agung.
After experiencing the cool breeze of the mountainside, we traveled to Sangeh to visit a monkey forest. The forest is home to about 600 monkeys, belonging to various kingdoms within the forest. A local tour guide told us how the monkeys elect their chief leader. We saw one chief, a pregnant monkey, and a baby 2-week old monkey.
The last stop on Saturday afternoon was to Tanah Lot, another important site to Hindu culture. At Tanah Lot, Hindu temples sit on rocky cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean. For tourists, Tanah Lot is a popular destination for sunsets. Yes, we went primarily for the sunset, but the temple structures had an appeal that no sunset could rival. The evening turned out to be a bit cloudy and the sun disappeared behind thick grayish-blue clouds before hitting the horizon. Perhaps I will return to Tanah Lot some day, waiting for a more magnificent natural wonder.
My 5k race on Sunday was the primary reason for spending the weekend in Bali to begin with. So, early Sunday morning Yvette and I made our way to the Four Seasons on Jimbaran Bay. We arrived in time to see the beginning of the triathalon and watched as nearly 300 athletes ran into the warm waters of Jimbaran Bay to begin the 2+ hour athletic spectacle. A bit later in the morning the 5k took runners through the narrow and uneven streets of Jimbaran, while the last 100 meters or so turned back onto Four Seasons property for a run through the sand to the finish line. Thanks to Yvette I have a photo of me coming down the home stretch in the sand! It was a great experience.
On the way back to our hotel after the race we walked along the beach then made our way through some of the street vendors selling oleh-oleh. Stopping to look around we found some items of interest at a particular stall. Before long, I was speaking Bahasa Indonesian to the vendors and I began to draw a crowd of locals (apparently captivated at my language skills – haha). We chatted in a mix of English and Bahasa for 15 minutes or so and by the end of our conversation I had been given an Indoensian name. Well, really a Balinese name, Candra Wayan. Candra translates as “moon” and means beautiful (the Balinese consider a full moon to be quite beautiful) and Wayan indicates that I am the first born in my family. Candra Wayan, I like the way it sounds.
Now it is back to another week of school in Yogya. It won’t be long, however, until Christian arrives in Indonesia and we make out way back to the magical island of Bali.
Our adventures on Saturday took us to a sacred Hindu place, Mt. Agung. One of Bali’s most impressive geographical sites, Mt. Agung is considered a sacred place among the Balinese. The views from this north Bali landmark were truly amazing. In the photos one can also see the neighboring Mt. Batur, an active volcano, boasting views just as impressive as Mt. Agung.
After experiencing the cool breeze of the mountainside, we traveled to Sangeh to visit a monkey forest. The forest is home to about 600 monkeys, belonging to various kingdoms within the forest. A local tour guide told us how the monkeys elect their chief leader. We saw one chief, a pregnant monkey, and a baby 2-week old monkey.
The last stop on Saturday afternoon was to Tanah Lot, another important site to Hindu culture. At Tanah Lot, Hindu temples sit on rocky cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean. For tourists, Tanah Lot is a popular destination for sunsets. Yes, we went primarily for the sunset, but the temple structures had an appeal that no sunset could rival. The evening turned out to be a bit cloudy and the sun disappeared behind thick grayish-blue clouds before hitting the horizon. Perhaps I will return to Tanah Lot some day, waiting for a more magnificent natural wonder.
My 5k race on Sunday was the primary reason for spending the weekend in Bali to begin with. So, early Sunday morning Yvette and I made our way to the Four Seasons on Jimbaran Bay. We arrived in time to see the beginning of the triathalon and watched as nearly 300 athletes ran into the warm waters of Jimbaran Bay to begin the 2+ hour athletic spectacle. A bit later in the morning the 5k took runners through the narrow and uneven streets of Jimbaran, while the last 100 meters or so turned back onto Four Seasons property for a run through the sand to the finish line. Thanks to Yvette I have a photo of me coming down the home stretch in the sand! It was a great experience.
On the way back to our hotel after the race we walked along the beach then made our way through some of the street vendors selling oleh-oleh. Stopping to look around we found some items of interest at a particular stall. Before long, I was speaking Bahasa Indonesian to the vendors and I began to draw a crowd of locals (apparently captivated at my language skills – haha). We chatted in a mix of English and Bahasa for 15 minutes or so and by the end of our conversation I had been given an Indoensian name. Well, really a Balinese name, Candra Wayan. Candra translates as “moon” and means beautiful (the Balinese consider a full moon to be quite beautiful) and Wayan indicates that I am the first born in my family. Candra Wayan, I like the way it sounds.
Now it is back to another week of school in Yogya. It won’t be long, however, until Christian arrives in Indonesia and we make out way back to the magical island of Bali.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Birthdays and Weddings
This week has allowed me the opportunity to experience two festive events, Indonesian style.
Tuesday was Elis’ birthday and we celebrated by taking her and her family out to dinner at Gadjah Wong. When our meals arrived we sang Happy Birthday to Elis in English then enjoyed our wonderfully prepared meals. After dinner we turned our attention to the live band, playing a mix of country folk songs, many of them in English. Much to everyone’s surprise, Ingrid decided to sing along with the band for 2 songs! Near the end of out dinner the Gadjah Wong staff presented Elis with a beautiful fruit platter, decorated with simple flowers and lit up with candles. She received a second Happy Birthday song, this time in Indonesian. Overall, it was a lovely evening with friends, food, and birthday cheer!
On Wednesday I traveled with Chelsea and Anastasia up to the village of Kaliurang for Tommy’s wedding. Tommy is an ICRS student and he invited everyone from the ICRS to celebrate in his wedding. Tommy and his new bride Emy are Christians so the wedding paralleled a typical Christian wedding in the West. I did notice some differences from weddings in the West as well as some elements that might have been uniquely Indonesian. The wedding party was inclusive of the bride, groom, and each set of parents (no bridesmaids, groomsmen, etc). This rather simple set-up of 6 showed the family intimacy involved in marriage. At one point the bride and groom were kneeling in front of each set of parents, I presume for a blessing. Also, the parents were involved with the legal aspect of the wedding. After the vows and exchanging of rings the couple sat at a table to publicly sign legal marriage papers. Tommy approached us after the wedding to express his gratitude for us attending the ceremony. Quite honestly, though, I think we were the ones being blessed by being given the chance to share in his wedding joy!
Tuesday was Elis’ birthday and we celebrated by taking her and her family out to dinner at Gadjah Wong. When our meals arrived we sang Happy Birthday to Elis in English then enjoyed our wonderfully prepared meals. After dinner we turned our attention to the live band, playing a mix of country folk songs, many of them in English. Much to everyone’s surprise, Ingrid decided to sing along with the band for 2 songs! Near the end of out dinner the Gadjah Wong staff presented Elis with a beautiful fruit platter, decorated with simple flowers and lit up with candles. She received a second Happy Birthday song, this time in Indonesian. Overall, it was a lovely evening with friends, food, and birthday cheer!
On Wednesday I traveled with Chelsea and Anastasia up to the village of Kaliurang for Tommy’s wedding. Tommy is an ICRS student and he invited everyone from the ICRS to celebrate in his wedding. Tommy and his new bride Emy are Christians so the wedding paralleled a typical Christian wedding in the West. I did notice some differences from weddings in the West as well as some elements that might have been uniquely Indonesian. The wedding party was inclusive of the bride, groom, and each set of parents (no bridesmaids, groomsmen, etc). This rather simple set-up of 6 showed the family intimacy involved in marriage. At one point the bride and groom were kneeling in front of each set of parents, I presume for a blessing. Also, the parents were involved with the legal aspect of the wedding. After the vows and exchanging of rings the couple sat at a table to publicly sign legal marriage papers. Tommy approached us after the wedding to express his gratitude for us attending the ceremony. Quite honestly, though, I think we were the ones being blessed by being given the chance to share in his wedding joy!
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